Vertical Garden are an alternative for gardeners who do not have too much horizontal space, want to cover an unattractive wall or want something different.
Choose a wall.
For advice on building a vertical garden, we spoke to Phillips of Singer Hill Cafe in Oregon, Oregon, who is the founder of The Vertical Garden Institute. Yates says he learned through many trials and errors and also used Patrick Blank’s book, The Vertical Garden, which is considered by botanists as the inventor of vertical gardens, as a guide.
Start by choosing a wall. “If you have a wall that’s ugly, that’s what you want to do,” says Yates. The good news is that almost any wall will do, and unless you want to make a huge vertical garden or plant a tree, you don’t have to worry about the weight.
Which plant you choose will depend on which wall you choose and how much sunlight it receives. However, if you want to experiment with specific plants, choose a wall that provides the best growth for them.
Make a frame
The main structure of the vertical garden wall is a frame, a plastic sheet, and a three-layered sandwich made of fabric. Make the whole setup before hanging it. While you can attach it directly to the wall, Yates says, making a frame to hang on the wall means it will be much easier to take it down.
Yates uses a 3/4 inch PVC pipe, elbows, and four-sided joints to make a frame. He advises against the use of metal (due to extra weight and costs) and wood (it requires pressure treatment to prevent moisture from rotting – you do not want water between the wooden wall and the plastic of the frame to Get stuck).
Attach the plastic wrap.
Attach a sheet of plastic to the frame. Plastic acts as a backing for the fabric layer, as well as keeping water away from the wall. It uses expanded PVC sheets. (Note: If you want to test it on a wooden wall, you’ll need to blow from behind.)
Attach the fabric layer to the frame. This is the material in which your plants will survive, and which will hold water for them. Yates has used basic felt carpet padding but says you can use almost anything that retains water without rotting.
You will need at least two layers of fabric. Attach them directly to the frame with galvanized screws and stainless steel staples as if you were pulling a canvas into a frame. As long as the fabric is safe and tight, without wrinkles or wrinkles, it’s good to go. “You need to attach it somehow so it doesn’t come off and it looks beautiful,” says Yates.
Establish an irrigation system.
To keep plants growing vertically, you will need an irrigation system that can provide moisture to the entire fabric layer. You can make poly tubes with a fitting that locks (Yates uses perma-folk irrigation fittings). It’s a tube at the top of your panel with emitters that drip water. Your best bet is to get them from an irrigation provider.
You can buy standard valves and irrigation droppers, but you will need a propagation timer that can be set to seconds instead of minutes. You want a rapid flow of water for 10 to 15 seconds three to six times a day, depending on the weather conditions and your specific setup. Attach an emitter every 2 to 3 inches to the top irrigation tube and experiment to find the right balance between keeping the wall wet without watering the plants too much.
Attach the frame to the wall using stainless steel hardware (to prevent rust). Hooks are fine if you think you’ll want to remove the frame. Otherwise, the brackets in the wall and frame will also work.
Add a fertilizer injector and connect the irrigation system to the water source.
To fertilize your wall, attach a fertilizer injector, such as Add-It, with a simple irrigation valve that sends liquid fertilizer into the irrigation system. Then connect to the irrigation system and connect to your water source. You will need to filter the water from the irrigation water filter, which is cheaper and available at most hardware stores.
Remember, there will be some flow One way to deal with this is to place a flower bed under your vertical garden.
Choose your plants.
As with any garden, keep in mind the sun, shade, humidity, wind, and cold that you are going to leave out all year round. If you plan to leave the garden outside during the winter, Yates recommends choosing plants for a cooler zone than your living. For example, Oregon City is a zone 9, but the Yates plant at least one 6, and usually 3. Up to 5 range.
If you are building a detachable wall and planting it with evergreens, you can try to store it in a cool, dry place for the winter when the plants are dormant.
Some of the plants that have done well in the walls of Yates are Hosta, Ibers, Phlox, Fern, Vigila, and even Blueberries. “Native plants seem to work better than non-native ones,” he says.
To insert plants into the outer layer of the fabric, use a razor blade to make a horizontal cut in the material. Get as much soil as possible from the root ball of the plant (to prevent the root from rotting) and put it in the cut. Using a staple gun, insert three to five stainless steel staples to attach the fabric to the back of the plastic in a semicircle around the root ball, forming a secure envelope.
The recreational area, Yates says, is designing your planting, and the height of the vertical garden offers a lot of possibilities.
Choose plants that grow 2 to 3 feet out of the wall, and plant them up so they can shade down. If you do, however, keep in mind that you will need to plant shade-tolerant breeds, such as ferns. In addition, a plant that is 8 feet above the ground often falls, Yates says. It does have a nice waterfall effect but it also prevents what’s underneath, so you’ll have to re-trim it.
Planting in vertical strips, green-shaded plants in one strip and sun-loving flowers in the other, is a good idea. “If you’re going to do that and it has the most dramatic effect, and you want your friends and neighbors’ jaws to fall off, you need to get over their heads,” says Yates. “They need to look at a plant that they usually see on their feet.”