How to Build a Wine Rack

How to Build a Wine Rack: It’s safe to say that many people who buy wine by the case like to display their stock as part of their home decor, but no wine rack will do. Whether you’re looking for a Mediterranean feel, a rack that can withstand the outdoors, or if you need to store a lot of wine, these three wine racks—built at Popular Mechanics Workshop—are just the thing. What you are looking for.

Designed for the serious wine enthusiast, this pair of racks holds approximately five cases, for total storage space of 10 cases, and is built using a modular system. This rack is built with 2-in. Birch veneer plywood. All exposed plywood edges are faced with 1⁄8-inch-thick strips of solid birch. Angle joint blocks are cut from 6⁄4 stock. If you can’t get solid birch in this size, you can substitute maple as it has a fairly similar shape.

Read More: How To Build a Kids Bed

Begin by sizing the panels, making sure to allow for add-on 1⁄8-in, strips. You won’t need clamps to glue on the strips. Use masking tape instead of applying the necessary gluing pressure. Cut the strips 5 inches wide to allow for gluing. After the glue has set they are flush with the block plane to the panel surfaces [1]. Don’t skimp with the tape; Use 6-in.-long strips on 3-in. To get good contact throughout the interval.

Diagonal cross panels are assembled with edge half-lap joints: 1⁄2-in.-wide notches are cut halfway between the mating pieces. You can make these marks in one pass on a table saw using a dado head. If you don’t have a dado head, simply make two kerf cuts with a smooth-cutting, regular saw blade [2].

Here’s how to get evenly spaced cuts: Clamp a stop 12 3⁄8 inches from the blade to the radial arm fence. Cut 6 inches into the panel to make the first cut for one notch, then flip the panel over end to end, and make the first cut for the second notch. Do this with eight panels, then shift the stop block so the second kerf cut is 1⁄2 inch from the first, measured from outside to outside.

Repeat the sawing on the eight panels, flipping them alternately for the second notch cut.

A quick way to get the notch waste out is to bore a 1⁄2-in.-dia. hole on the inside bend. Otherwise, use a jig saw with a narrow blade and work it into the corner. Sand the faces of all the panels. This loosens the fit of the panel in the notches, but a little looseness is fine.

In fact, a tight fit will cause assembly problems.

Creating Joining Blocks

Now, you make the angle joining blocks. These can be made on a table saw. How it’s done on a table saw: Tilt the blade for a 45-degree bevel cut [3]. First, make two passes in each block to cut the low-bottom kerf. Then raise the blade and position the fence to make another series of cuts, which will allow the waste to exit [4]. These deep cuts are made last so that there is always a wide surface that does not tip over the table.

If you must have a molding cutter head for the saw, which has a suitable small radius shape, use it to cut small corner rounds on the blocks. Otherwise, do the rounding over with a block plane and sander. Sand all exposed surfaces of the blocks before assembly.

The blocks are glued to the ends of the panels for the first stage of assembly. Here, masking tape is an absolute necessity as normal clamps simply cannot achieve an adequate grip [5]. Two strips of stretch tape will suffice. To make sure you join the blocks to the correct panel faces, pre-join the panels and mark the block locations. A slip-up will haunt you.

How to interlock the panel

After the glue has been set, snap the panels together (they won’t need glue), then cut the short-end panels to length. Working on a flat work surface, glue them in place [6]. Since many plywood panels have some degree of warp, it is advisable to use a strong tape for this gluing operation to ensure that the parts are separated. Duct tape is a good choice [7]. Again, check the product first for clean adhesion and removal.

Wood screws and glue are used to connect the side members. The ends are then covered with wooden plugs. Clamp the top and bottom members in place and bore a 1⁄16-in. Pilot holes for screws. Remove the clamps, drill a shallow hole for the plug, then ream to the diameter of the screw body and shank respectively. Glue and screw the top and bottom panels, repeat the steps, and connect the left and right side members. The closed corners are secured with glue and 1 1⁄2-in. (4d) Finishing nails. When both parts are complete, stack them on top of each other and drill the screw holes for the mending plates. These plates will act to prevent the parts from moving.

If you have spray paint equipment and a suitable space to work, you can apply virtually any type of finish. But brushing a regular topcoat finish into these angled corners is especially difficult.

A good solution is to use a penetrating Danish oil finish. It provides a hard satin finish and is easy to apply. We used a clear natural finish.

A solid furniture accessory, this metal wine rack stands 36 inches tall, weighs 35 pounds, and holds 18 bottles of wine. Each bottle is placed in two rings, one at the neck and one at the base. A variety of blacksmithing and welding techniques are used in its construction.

Start by forming the rings. If you have a power hacksaw, you can cut 1⁄2-in.-thick sections of 5- or 6-in.-dia. thick wall pipe.

How to Build a Wine Rack

An alternative method, shown here, is to create a shape around which the circles are bent (see the description of the ring shape in the drawing). 5-in.-dia. A part of the thick-walled pipe can work as a form. Weld a steel strip to the bottom of the form to secure it to the vise [1].

The bending wrench shown in the drawing helps shape the rings. Another shop-made tool, the rail locator (see detail J), is later used to locate the rails supporting the wine bottles. Since it has a ring-like contour, shape it as you bend them.

Use a hacksaw to cut strips lengthwise into 36 circles. Grind all ends smoothly if needed. Save the form in Vis. Close one end of the form with lever-jaw pliers and bend the ring by pulling and twisting with a bending wrench. Close the rings with a C-clamp and weld the inner and outer surfaces together [2].

Grind the weld clean [3/4]. Fix the ring in a vise with a hammer. The central arches of the wine rack are 14 inches in diameter. One way to shape them is to use an automobile wheel as a form. Heat a length of 1⁄2-in. With an oxyacetylene torch for making square steel or cherry red in a forge.

To avoid heating the steel, you can also bend the arch, using a vise and a bending wrench [5]. First, place the arch shape on the cardboard. Then secure the torque wrench in the vise, tang side up. Place one end of the steel between the tenons and begin bending. Continue bending the length of steel, occasionally removing the work and checking the shape against the arch layout.

After bending both arches, check that they are the same. Cut the vertical supports and smooth the ends that will rest on the floor. Supports the weld arch.

Next, place the three top rings inside an arch. Place the remaining rings in the test position, then remove them [6]. Fasten the first three rings to the arch and to each other and weld them in place. Clamp and weld the remaining rings. Attach the rings to the other arch to line up with your teammates. Clean welds. Join the arches by welding the side supports. To keep the arches flat and square, clamp several flat pieces of steel bridging the 12-in. The gap between the arches

To find the position of the rails that hold the bottles, first, locate the exact bottom of each ring. You can do this by placing a piece of the shot, a dry pea, or a pencil inside each ring and marking where it settles. Line up the rail locator mark with this mark. Mark the ring on each end of the locator. Turn the rack upside down [7] and weld a rail under the ring directly above these two outer marks.

Finish by spray painting black with rust-resistant metallic paint.

Patio wine rack

This rack was made to fit the beverage can of the barbecue bench. It will hold six bottles and keep them from moving in and out of the house once your party starts.

Boring the true holes is especially important for this project. Otherwise, the result will be out of the square. Once all the members are cut and drilled, apply a small amount of glue to each hole and assemble. Make sure you let the glue dry.

To prevent the rack from splitting under tension, drill lead holes at each joint and pin dowels in place with 1⁄2-in. Neglecting to drill these critical holes in the braids lead will, in all likelihood, cause the rack to crack.

What is the best type of wine rack?

Best Overall: J.K. Adams Ash Wood 40-Bottle Wine Rack

According to user ratings, these racks are super sturdy, easy to install, and ideal for customized wine storage, whether kept on the floor or atop any surface.

What do you call a wine rack?

Synonyms for wine cellar include larder, wine rack, and wine stock. When someone refers to their wine cellar, they may be talking about their wine refrigerator, their wine storage in a basement or pantry, their actual wine cellar, or a wine cabinet.


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